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part one

The first thing you notice about Saigon is the constant droning sound–the steady whine of over 7 million motor scooters. A relentless roar–rapid accelerations punctuated by bursting beep-beeps. The sound is the lifeblood of the city. It oozes down every wide boulevard, winding side street, and narrow passageway. Like a school of fish, the swarm of scooters meanders en masse, magically parting to let an approaching two-wheeler cross its path or join the fray. Chaotic and with never-ending determination, the sound carries its cargo to their next destination. And then, back again, over and over and over.